Morocco #27 - Saffarin Square in Fes

Hi everyone!

Today, I'd like to take you on a little journey to the heart of one of the most captivating squares in Fes: the famous Place Saffarin. It's just a few dozen metres from Al-Karawiyin University, in a lively corner of the medina (Old Town) known as RCIF.

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Place Saffarin, a name that resonates like a tribute to the coppersmiths of Fes. This square has always been the beating heart of ancestral know-how, where copper and brass come to life under the precise blows of hammers. If you take a stroll around here, you'll be lulled by a veritable concert of metallic sounds, a unique spectacle that bears witness to the talent of these craftsmen.

I even exchanged a few words with a craftsman, who explained that some of the tools he uses belonged to his grandfather's father! This connection with the past touched me deeply.

I still remember, when I was a child, that we had a few copper objects at home. Among them was a large tray with carved details that made it special, a metal teapot, and a pretty little glass, all bought, I think, on that square.

The coppersmiths create marvels by hand: cauldrons, pots, trays, teapots, tea and sugar tins, and even couscous pots and samovars. Each piece, whether intended for everyday use or reserved for special occasions, reflects incredible quality and finesse. Whether for modest or wealthy families, there is something to suit every taste and budget, depending on the size and finish.

Over the years, this traditional craft has evolved while retaining its soul. Ancestral techniques are now combined with more modern processes. Craftsmen use tools such as lathes and rolling mills and incorporate new materials, such as nickel silver, to enhance their production.

What really fascinated me here was the organisation. Everyone has their place: the master craftsmen, known as ‘maâlems’, guide the apprentices with patience and expertise. A piece passes through several hands before being completed, each stage being carried out by an expert in his or her field. This transmission, both technical and human, perpetuates a precious tradition.

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In my previous article, I told you about the prestigious library of Al-Karawiyine University, a real historical treasure in the heart of Fes. Today, I'd like to draw your attention to a detail that deserves a little stroll: the back door of this library. It is located in the famous Place Saffarin. This square, with its timeless charm and traditional workshops, discreetly houses the back of one of the oldest and richest libraries in Morocco.

It's fascinating to think that such a vibrant place, dedicated to ancestral skills, sits alongside the world of knowledge and books. It's a perfect reflection of the soul of Fes, a city that harmoniously combines tradition and erudition.

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Around Place Saffarine, there are markets dating back to medieval times, as well as an area known as Qissariat Al Kifah, founded in 809. These places were a veritable centre of lively commerce, where you could find an incredible variety of refined and unique products. Each market had its own speciality: women's clothes, men's clothes, specific fabrics, shoes and threads... During the day, textiles were the mainstay of the market, while in the evenings it was transformed into a night market dedicated to food and meat.

In those days, trading was highly organised: specialised vendors called ‘dallaline’ guided buyers and made sure everything went smoothly. Each market even had a manager called ‘Amin’, who settled disputes and welcomed new members.

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In the centre of Place Saffarine I found the Médersa Saffarin (Saffarin School), one of the oldest in Fes, was built at the end of the 13ᵉ century during the reign of Sultan Abou Youssef Yaâcoub. This school reflects the Merinid Sultans' attachment to education and teaching. What makes this place even more special is that great scholars such as El Jazouli worked here, writing landmark works in Moroccan history.

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Strolling through the square, I passed a magnificent mosque. I didn't have time to find out much about it, but it seems to be quite historic. The beauty of its door and minaret really impressed me, so I decided to take a few photos before resuming my walk.

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Not far from there is a truly unique place: the Saffarin Hammam. This traditional public bath dates back to the 14ᵉ century. Honestly, I didn't even know it existed here! It was while walking around that I stumbled across it by pure chance. Seeing its door right in front of me, my curiosity got the better of me. I couldn't go on without going inside to discover this fascinating place...

This hammam was reserved for women and was also known as the ‘bride's hammam’, as it was here that the bride came to wash before her wedding. She would also be beautified in this hammam. Once she was ready, she would finish by praying in a small mosque located near the area where she was getting dressed. This was a tradition that every bride-to-be performed before her wedding to receive God's blessing on her union.

The hammam was also a place for women to relax in those days. It was here that they would meet up with each other, as there were no cafés or public areas where they could go out freely. It was even in this hammam that mothers sometimes chose future wives for their sons.

The hammam was restored every 50 years or so to maintain its original appearance, exactly as it was in the 14th century.

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If you ever come to Fes in Morocco, I invite you to visit this square and immerse yourself in its unique atmosphere. You won't be disappointed by the warmth of the people you meet, the beauty of the crafts and the rejuvenating experience of the hammam. Thank you for taking the time to read this. See you soon for another visit and another post!

I'm Redwan from Morocco, a country rich in history, culture and natural landscapes! I've always had a passion for travelling and discovery. Nothing gives me greater pleasure than exploring new places, whether historical, archaeological or in the heart of nature. Through my blogs, you can discover the hidden gems of Morocco, whether you want to admire the fascinating architecture of a historic site, delve into the legends surrounding an archaeological site, or simply marvel at the beauty of Moroccan nature!

Photos taken by my own phone (Samsung Galaxy A04s).