Bodysurfing some small fun ones at the Wedge.

in GEMS2 days ago

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I'm really glad I got here on the 23rd of October 2024.
I came for every swell from 2009 to 2016. Then everything fell apart for me. Gradually and then suddenly. I've made some progress in the last couple of years. I have only been to the wedge maybe 2 or 3 times since then. This day was so beautiful. Sunny and clear. Warm but not hot. No crowds or traffic jams. I even met a painter there who owns a gallery a few minutes away on Balboa Island. It's really nice to meet people who like and make art. Anyway these are the smaller waves I probably would have never posted in the old days.

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Wave surfing is truly an adventuristic kinds of beach sports, I also congratulate you Sir for your continuing progress. ☺